The warm sunshine encouraged the purchase of a traditional French picnic, which we enjoyed in the town square.

Having spent the morning marching on cliff, sand-dune and beach, our route back took us across rolling French countryside, where the absence of field hedges and clear boundaries creates a rather different landscape to that of home.

We then explored the centre of Calais on foot. We made our way to the town hall and visited the famous belfry, 75m high (250ft) and providing a spectacular viewpoint from which to survey the entire town.

We then met Antoinette Boulanger, Richard's correspondent friend in Calais, who had arranged a private tour of the church of Notre Dame de Calais for us.

Dominique Darre, a leading trustee, was our guide, assisted for translation by a local British teacher, Kristina Howells.

The church has a very long history, much of it tied in with English occupation, although in more modern times it was where General de Gaulle married a native of Calais, Yvonne Vendroux. After more urban rambling, taking in the Citadel and old lighthouse, we repaired to a local hostellerie (French spelling) for appropriate refreshment.

The area is vast and provides a thought-provoking experience for all, particularly at the huge monument overlooking the town of Arras. Warning signs keep the visitor on the paths-there are still unexploded munitions lying in the soil.

We carried on with our journey and arrived at the village of Gavrelle, a few miles from Arras and the location of our next hotel.

We hopped aboard the free town centre bus and went to the Citadel, a large fortress dating from the 17th century and designed by the military architect Vauban.

Here we saw a grim reminder of WW2-the place of execution of over 200 Resistance members by the Nazis during 1941-4.

We explored the town, including a guided tour of Les Boves, 13th century stone quarries deep beneath the town centre.

Much of Arras had to be rebuilt after WW1, but it is difficult to tell. It has delightful side streets, attractive restaurants and shops as well as historic buildings including the town hall and another tall belfry to climb!, Cue the need for more refreshment at a local pavement café.

Gary led a walk from Arras into the countryside. Lisa and I went to look at some local stores and compare goods and merchandise with home.

We then headed south to the little town of Bapaume for another urban exploration.

After this we headed for the large town of Douai and the "Centre Historique de Minier", which is a former coal mine and now a visitor centre. We joined a guided tour and complete with safety helmets went underground. A most interesting and informative visit.

The visitor centre is well worth going to and gives all the background information needed. We then made our way across country to Calais, the Channel Tunnel and back into England.